Riva - Go for a stroll along the harbour
It has everything a proper harbour promenade can offer.
There are bars, cafes, restaurants, ice cream sellers, charter companies
selling boat trips, the smell of the sea, a typical smell of fish, (sadly there
was a slight smell of sewage too), lots of people of all ages and walks of
life. Find yourself a table at one of the many cafes and bars, especially
lovely for coffee very early in the morning while looking out over the calm and
light blue sea or at sunset and during the blue hour.
This square officially
called Trg Republike (Republic Square), is located west of the Riva and gets
its name from the arches of the surrounding Renaissance buildings. It is here where you can feel how closely Split and
Venice were connected. If you stand in the middle of the square you
will have a beautiful view over the harbour and the palm fringed promenade. If I
wouldn’t know where I am … I could have seen this square on one of my trips to
Venice.
Marjan Hill and Veli Varoš
Walk up the 178 metres hill and enjoy the scenery and its
sheer magnificent beauty. If you walk up from the Prokurative, it is a steady
and easy climb. You walk through Veli Varoš, a part of town with gardens where huge
pet rabbits and a lot of cats live. You’ll meet locals exchanging the news of
the day. They don’t have a choice but to take a rest every once in a while, as
they are carrying their grocery bags all the way up to their hillside property. If you have the
time simply stray left and right to find out what is hidden in the cobble
stoned alleys that are lined with rustic stone houses. It actually feels like
walking through a mountain village.
Door in Veli Varoš |
Teraca Vidilica on Marjan Hill
Take a seat at one of the many tables that are directly facing
Split. The view from up here over the town is unique. The location is so spectacular;
it is well worth to stop here before and after you go for a hike on Marjan
Hill.
Info. Prilaz Vladimira Nazora 1. Visit their website for more info.
Teraca Vidilica and its magnificent view |
Old Jewish Cemetery on Marjan Hill
Right next to Teraca Vidilica is the entrance to the Old
Jewish Cemetery. The cemetery was established in 1573 and was active for 372
years. Look around the more than 700 still visible graves to find the
gravestone of Vid Morpurgo, the founder of Split’s first book store.
St Nicholas church on Marjan Hill
The 13th century church is dedicated to St Nicholas. The
fishermen regard St Nicholas as their patron. Sit down to gaze in admiration
over the Adriatic Sea. This quiet place is perfect to dream, write, kiss ... While I stand here a guy comes along. He looks at me and says "This is where I got married."
St. Jeronimus Church on Marjan Hill
If you walk on you’ll find another small church that was
built in the second half of the 15th century. It is dedicated to St. Jeronimus,
the saint patron of Dalmatia.
Renaissance Hermit Caves on Marjan Hill
If you stand next to the St. Jeronimus Church you’ll find
the walled in caves, where hermit monks lived to protect the church. I reckon
you’ll have to be a deeply spiritualist nature ... choosing to live this
secluded to protect a church is surely unusual. The view over the Adriatic Sea is to die for.
St Jeronimus Church on Marjan Hill |
Green Market on Ulica Stari pazar
What is not to like with probably hundreds of stalls
selling fruit, vegetables, cheese, honey, flowers and not to forget dried
lavender? It is an excellent place to learn what is in season at the time of
your visit. Buy some fresh goodies and have a long picnic at one of the
beaches. Locals buy their groceries here, it is not foremost a set-up for
visitors. If you keep on walking towards the gate that leads to the peristyle
there are also lots of stalls selling bags, hats, beach towels and jewellery.
Matejuška Port
There is this massive fish hook, maybe two metres in
height (or even a bit more) if I guess correctly. As I look around me, it
becomes soon clear that it must be a monument dedicated to the fishermen who go
out fishing from this harbour. If you are here in the early evening, you’ll
meet the fishermen that have a drink while they grill the catch of the day.
Split is a modern town with shopping malls and stadiums and cruise tourism, and
to see that locals amidst all that stout-heartedly hold on to their traditional
way of life is reassuring. It shows once more that this is a town with real people, and not just an open air museum.
You are certainly hungry after a day like this, try one of these restaurants in the Old Town of Split.
From Berlin with love