A guide to Ahrenshoop in Mecklenburg Western Pomerania

This old trading village in Mecklenburg Western Pomerania was founded in 1311. I always wanted to visit and I'm so happy that it took no more than 705 years to do that. For centuries Ahrenshoop by the Baltic Sea was a quiet and secluded place on the border between Mecklenburg and Hither Pomerania. The light here is fantastic; hence the village became an artist colony in 1892. In more recent history, Ahrenshoop was locked behind the Iron Curtain and out of reach for most. That all changed when the wall came down, and today, the villagers are as free as the countless seagulls that fly over the Baltic Sea. 

Seven beautiful things to do in Ahrenshoop

 

Viewing platform Grenzweg - walk along the old boarder

The Pomeranian part of this area was more than 250 years under Swedish government, and the Grenzweg is the point where a boarder once separated Swedish Pomerania from the Prussian Mecklenburg. From here you have a lovely view over the beach and Baltic Sea along the West Beach and in the other direction towards Wustrow.

Coffee and waffles at Café Pieni

The Coffee at Café Pieni is really good and so are the waffles with ice cream and forest berry compote. The service couldn’t be any friendlier. "Pieni" is actually Finnish and means "The little one." I risk sounding a bit odd, but the bathroom is designed beautiful too, and that most often is the perfect indicator. It clearly shows that somebody cares about guests and wants them to be happy. Be sure to stop by. This is the sweet café you had always dreamed of.

Info: Café Pieni. Dorfstrasse 1a, Ahrenshoop. Hours: 10am to 6pm. Please check the website for details.

 

 

West Beach – Where the earth kisses the Baltic Sea

The West beach, directly adjacent to the Darss forest is one of the most vivid examples of land degradation and land formation. Due to its wildness and seclusion it often mentioned as "the most beautiful beach in Germany." The 14 kilometre long sandy beach that exudes a rough but romantic charm is on the west coast of the Fischland-Zingst peninsula. I inhale the salty air, and while on the horizon the heaven kisses the Baltic Sea, I feel free really.

High Shore between Wustrow and Ahrenshoop

This cliff on this 3.2 kilometre long stretch of shoreline between Wustrow and Ahrenshoop is up to 16 metres high and is called High Shore. You walk along a moraine, which was created by Scandinavian ice over 10,000 years ago and formed by the surf. The High Shore is a so-called active cliff, in which the annual coastal erosion can be up to five metres. You'll have a magnificent view over the glistening sea and also experience a true feast for the senses if you walk amongst the wild roses and buckthorn bushes that grow on top of the cliffs, but if you walk below them, you'll have the opportunity to watch the European Sand Martins flying in and out of their nests. It is quite a spectacle.

There are also parts of a few old concrete bunkers in the sea, remnants of the GDR surveillance apparatus. Just go now, don't leave it too long if you would like to see them. As I said earlier, it is an active cliff, and according to research more than 70 meters of the cliff was washed away over the last century. Who knows how long the bunker parts will still be where they are now. 

Harbour Althagen and Saaler Bodden

It is a fantastic walk from the beach with its cliffs all the way through the fields to the bodden. The strip of land with the name Fischland, has water on two sides as it locks off the two meter deep (so called) Saaler Bodden from the Baltic Sea. To reach the little harbour Ahrenshoop Althagen on the northwest shore of the inland sea you walk along picturesque farmers gardens and along the for the area typical high reed and salt marshes. I often have the feeling to walk straight through an impressionistic painting, so very quaint is this scenery. Tip: Buy a jar of homemade elder flower jam from the honesty stalls along the way. At the harbour you can take a boat ride and have a drink.

Have dinner at Ginger

You are surely going to be very hungry after all this hiking through the fresh air. This is a modern looking and friendly place on the main road. I sat in the garden and had the vegetarian pasta with mushrooms, capsicums, courgette in cream sauce which was just delicious and exactly what I needed. Tip: The home-made lemonade tastes somewhat chemical, you might want to try it first.

Information Ginger. Dorfstr. 39, Ahrenshoop. Hours 12pm till 10m.

Watch the sunset in Ahrenshoop

Find a place on the beach for the blue hour. The sun gets down right in front of you. In summer the days are long, you will have around 17 hours of daylight. The sun sets at around 9.50pm. What a perfect ending to a beautiful day. Don’t forget that the next day is going to begin early. The sun rises at approximately 4.30am.

Information Ahrenshoop

How to get to Ahrenshoop. Fly to nearby airport Rostock and rent a car or use the bus or train. By car: Ahrenshoop is 260 kilometres from Berlin, 225 kilometres from Hamburg, 800 kilometres from Munich, 680 kilometres from Amsterdam (Netherlands), 240 kilometres from Copenhagen (Denmark). Summer season is from June to September, and it is best to book well ahead. In the peak-season, you'll often need to book accommodation for a minimum of seven days. This website can help (German only) I imagine this area to be wonderful on a snowy winter's day.

What did I miss? Looking forward to hear from you.

From Berlin with love