The last time someone told me about the Alsace region was
once more all about the glorious food and a romantic houseboat trip. That
sounds so fantastic, sitting on a boat, drinking white wine, eating cheese and
baguette, and peach compote after … Anyway, I have yet to go on that houseboat
trip, but for years I also wanted to visit Strasbourg and I eventually made it.
Not only is Strasbourg the heart of Europe, I also
imagined it to be full of cute timbered houses with cafes where I will do
nothing else than eat hearty home-style cooked food. And it is everything I
expected it to be and more. Strasbourg is only seven kilometres from Kehl in
Germany and 230 kilometres from Bern in Switzerland, and it feels so very
French. I only spent one week in this town and left with a heavy heart, I really
would have loved to stay longer.
I can't really say what the main attraction in France’s seventh biggest town is because there are so many equally interesting as well as charming places to visit. In the historical centre there is medieval architecture, there are more than 800 listed buildings in this UNESCO World Heritage Site. You'll also find neoclassical buildings from the French period and rather monumental properties stemming from the time of the German Emperor. And if one walks along the Ill, you will see modern architecture of European institutions.
I walked everywhere; there is no need to jump into a taxi
or use public transport. It is a town that wants to be discovered by foot, not
true, there came a point I jumped onto a boat, but first things first.
1. Cathédral Notre-Dame de Strasbourg
The Cathédral Notre-Dame de Strasbourg was built in the 15th
century with pink sandstone. Go back in time and imagine how you would feel if
you would have come to Strasbourg from one of the surrounding villages to find
this. Magnificent. Today we are accustomed to be surrounded by high rises and
skyscrapers, but for people in medieval times this must have been a genuine
wonder. It is most impressive to stand in front of it on the Place de la
Cathédrale. Walk away a bit, so you can only see a detail of the cathedral-entrance, framed by
townhouses on both sides, you'll get a good sense of how massive it is.
During these days, churches represented not only the church, but also
the community. And as I stand here, I can picture the massive sense of
community in this town. The cathedral is gigantic. With 142 metres its size is
almost overwhelming. I get slightly dizzy while looking-up.
Even if you aren’t religious, just go inside
to look at all the beauty and architecture and think of how old everything is.
They build this place without the help of computer programs and heavy machines.
There is this super adorable dog at the entrance to the stone pulpit and legend
has it that it belonged to the priest of the cathedral. Pet it and make a wish,
and it will come true. My wish became true.
Tickets: Free.
Dog at the Cathédral Notre-Dame de Strasbourg |
Cathédral Notre-Dame de Strasbourg. Window |
Cathédral Notre-Dame de Strasbourg. Detail of a window |
Cathédral Notre-Dame de Strasbourg. Windows and cupola |
Cathédral Notre-Dame de Strasbourg and facades in the old town |
2. Bronze 3D model of the cathedral
Outside on Place du Château is a Bronze 3D model of the
cathedral of Notre-Dame de Strasbourg. The little twin created by German
sculptor Egbert Broerken is true to scale and shows in detail how massive the real
property is. The model is also excellent for blind people to feel, touch, see
and understand the dimensions of the church.
Bronze 3D model of the cathedral. Place du Château.
Tickets: free.
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Bronze 3D model of the Cathédral Notre-Dame de Strasbourg |
3. Viewing platform of the cathedral
Don’t miss to climb up the 332 stairs to the viewing
platform below the spire of the cathedral. If you fear heights, it shouldn’t be
a problem, since you are in a walled spiral staircase for most of the time.
There will be (if I remember correctly) two occasions when you are going to be
on a balcony in the fresh air, but that is easily manageable really. Once you
reach the platform, rest assured the space is big enough to let you ignore that
you are this high in the sky. Calculate one to one and a half hour to really
enjoy the view (and the climb).
Place de la Cathédrale. Tickets EUR 5. Free for holders
of the Strasbourg Pass. Hours April to December 9am to 8pm. Ocotober to March
10am to 6pm. Closed 1st January, 1st May, 24th
December.
Viewing Platform Cathédral Notre-Dame de Strasbourg |
4. The Castle Square in Strasbourg
The Place du Château was built in 1215 and is the home of
the Palais Rohan and the Oeuvre Notre-Dame. This is the place, try to imagine
this, where 40 stonemasons are permanently employed, to take care of the
cathedral.
5. Palais Rohanin Strasbourg
This palace gives
you a great insight of of how royal life in the 18th century looked. The design
is inspired by the style of palaces in Paris. It houses three museums. That
sounds pretty fantastic, but I recommend you visit each museum on a different
day and not all three on one visit. You want to enjoy this, and not simply tick
it off a list. I visited the Musee des Arts decoratifs and the Musee des Beaux
Art.
6. Musée des Arts decoratifs in Palais Rohan
This museum is on the ground floor of the Palais Rohan.
As I stroll through the former residence of Bishop-Princes and the apartments
of the Cardinals of Rohan, I get the impression that they lived a life of
privilege. And all these rock stars of history stayed here for a period of time
too. I walk the same paths as Louis IV, Marie Antoinette and Napoleon I have
done before me.
There is the squeaking sound of the parquet flooring;
literally every step I take, makes this sound. The apartments are stunning.
Tapestry, gold, vases, paintings. It is so quiet; I can hear dust falling to
the ground, soon after I saw it dancing in the rays of sunshine. There are no
other visitors around, it is magical.
I’m most impressed when I reach the library and I'm
thrilled to discover a globe without Australia on it, this is a seriously
fascinating find. The room is so very beautiful; I can hardly bring myself to
leave. I proceed my round, but decide to go back to see the room one more time.
Musee des Arts decoratifs. Palais Rohan. 2 place du
Chateâu. Hours 10am to 6pm. Tickets EUR 6.50.
Strasbourg Palais Rohan. Tapestry, books and statues in the Library |
Palais Rohan Strasbourg - The Library - Musée des Arts decoratifs |
Palais Rohan Strasbourg Musée des Arts decoratifs |
Palais Rohan Strasbourg Musée des Arts decoratifs |
7. Musée des Beaux Art – Museum of Fine Art in Strasbourg
The museum is located on the first floor of the Palais
Rohan. I visit as soon as the doors open, and I’m so lucky to be one of the
only visitors. I look at European paintings from the last 500 years. Everything
that fits between religious and historical topics is covered. The collection
includes works by Italian painter Giotto, Cretan painter El Greco and Flemish
painter Rubens.
It is here that I meet the Mona Lisa of Strasbourg.
Parisian painter Nicolas de Largillière painted “La Belle Strasbourgeoise” in
1703 and to this day it is unclear who the lady in a hat, dressed in lace and
satin, is.
Looking at art can be overwhelming, but here they want
you to enjoy the collection. You will get a flyer that encourages you to think
about the paintings. We all know about the transience of things. Here you can
discover which painter used a half peeled lemon to show the passing of time ...
Musee des Beaux Art. 2, place du Château. Hours 10am to
6pm, closed on Tuesdays. Tickets EUR 6.50.
Palais Rohan Strasbourg. Musee des Beaux Art. La Belle Strasbourgeoise by Nicolas de Largillière |
8. Kammerzell House in Strasbourg
The Kammerzell House is a merchant’s house built in 1427
in Renaissance style, and a carved facade was added in 1589. It is not only a
house, it a piece of art, all these carvings, colourful windows and the
decorated timbered bars are simply beautiful. There is a restaurant in this
house but I didn’t find the time to eat here.
9. Place du Marche-aux-Cochons-de-Lait
If I wouldn’t know for sure that I’m really alive I would
believe to be an extra in a fairy tale. This is the cutest square, framed by
timbered houses from medieval times. It is very busy, true, but oh so pretty.
10. Shopping in Strasbourg
All over town you find lovely specialty stores as well as
all the well-known high street brands. Whenever I travel to France, I go and
find the nearest pharmacy to buy Huile Prodigieuse. As the name says, it really
is a prodigious product. It is excellent for face, body and hair, and it smells
heavenly. How to best describe it? It smells like dancing on the beach, by
night, under a starry sky. Ever since I tried it first, I take it with me on my
travels. That way I save to pack a bottle of perfume and a container of body
lotion into my suitcase.
11. Visit one of Strasbourg's many markets
On Saturdays browse through jewellery, antique furniture,
silverware, china, vintage postcards as well as clothing on the flea market at
Place de l'Etal from 7am till 4pm. You can also visit the Marché de Strasbourg
on Place Broglie; a big market every Wednesday from 7am till 6pm with fruit and
vegetables as well as clothing.
12. Sundowner on Place du Marche Gayot
I went here on several occasions for sundowners. There
are lots of locals, who are meeting on this picturesque square after work or
after a day of shopping. It looks like pretty much everybody is here in the
early evening. The square is surrounded by cute timbered houses on all four
sides.
13. Petite France – more than a name
We are in France, so why call this Petite France? In this
part of town lived the millers, fishermen and tanners, and for a long time no
one was really interested in it. Locals actually thought it is best to be
avoided, for all its smell and dirt. The name stems from the fact that this was
also the home of a hospital for people who suffered from syphilis. And in these
days syphilis was colloquially referred to as “French disease.”
Start your walk by the Tanners’ House. 42 rue du Bain aux
Plantes. Stroll through the narrow lanes, have a picnic by the canal, watch all
the people that are here too. Whatever it is you do you can be sure you are
going to do it in the most picturesque surroundings.
Petite France Strasbourg |
Wisteria Petite France Strasbourg |
14. The Vauban Dam
The Vauban Dam is a covered flood gate built in 1690; after
I walk up the staircase I reach a panoramic terrace. This is a place where you
will have a great view of Petite France. Bring drinks and enjoy the view.
Vauban Dam. Ponts Couvert. Hours: 7am to 7pm. Tickets:
free.
15. Strasbourg's Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art
The Museum of Modern and Contemporary
Art designed by French architect Adrien Fainsilber sits on the banks of the
Ill. It is an exhibition space with a permanent collection, with Graphic Arts and
photography. The building is a through and through light filled space, and
while I was there it was also very colourful. I will forever be grateful to
Daniel Buren. The French conceptual artist placed coloured squares on the large
window panes to create this effect.
Something unusual happened when I
visited. As I wanted to buy a ticket the lady at the register told me that the
register is broken. I offered “to pay the fee anyway,” but she declined “No,
thank you, I wouldn’t be able to issue a ticket.” This is so very lovely of
her, but I still feel bad for getting in the museum for free and not supporting
the arts.
After my visit I browse the bookstore
and have coffee and cake at the Art Café on the terrace from where I have the
perfect view over the Ill. As I left the museum I came across a lot of
skateboarders as they were doing their stunts.
Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. 1, place Hans Jean Arp. Hours: 10am to 6pm. Closed
on Tuesdays. Tickets EUR 6.50.
Strasbourg Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. Work by Daniel Buren |
16. Historical wine cellar of the hospital
This is a definite must see for wine lovers as well as
for history buffs and all curious travellers out there. It took me a great
while to find this wine cellar at the hospital. Really, there is a wine cellar
at the hospital in Strasbourg. Hard to believe.
I manage to get to this place only after I ask the
hospital porter (and even than it wasn't all that straight forward). There is
no sign that gives away that there is a wine cellar nearby.
The smiling porter sends me to the parking space of the hospital
and asks me to walk down a narrow flight of stairs. After I eventually find it
I enter the dark-ish ever so slightly musty smelling cellar. For crying out
loud I found it, I expect at least fanfares, but the cordial “bonjour” from a
member of staff is just as fantastic. There is a cash register and a long line
of shopping trolleys next to countless crates of wine on long tables. This is
like a, admittedly very unusual grocery store. You can chose from Pinot blanc,
Sylvaner, Klevener de Heiligenstein, Grand Cru, Riesling, Pinot gris,
Gewurztraminer, Pinot noir and Crémant. All the wines are from the Alsace region and carry the controlled
designation of origin label (AOC).
From the store in the entrance room I walk to the next
room where more darkness awaits me, and I chose to turn right and down, what
feels like, a long stretched catacomb. There are a few cobwebs and more musty
smell. This place is below ground and from 1395; it was used to store wine but
also grain. I begin to speculate what else must have happened here over the
centuries, and that makes me turn around fairly soon after I enter the tunnel.
But wait, there is more. I walk over to the left, and reach a massive wine
cellar with lots of huge wine barrels; there even is one from 1472 and
supposedly the oldest wine barrel in the world. It is fascinating to read all
the information on the barrels and to be in such a historical and unique wine
cellar. Please note: This is not a bar nor is it some sort of show-performance
venue; it is a wine cellar with a long history that sells wine.
Cave Historique Hospices Strasbourg. 1, place de
l’Hopital. Finding this place is part of the little adventure. Hours: Monday to
Friday 8.30am to 12pm and 1.30pm to 5.30pm. Saturday 9am to 12.20pm. Tickets:
Free.
Barrels in the Historic Wine Cellar below a Hospital in Strasbourg |
Strasbourg Historic Wine Cellar below the Hospital |
17. Drink, eat and dance at the Ill
There are four barges along the Ill where you can have
drinks, a bite to eat and even dance on the top deck. This quayside location is
a truly fun place to be, and the nightlife goes on well into the night on
weekends.
Check out their websites for opening hours and to find
your style. Barco Latino. Café Atlantico. Le Rafiot. Vino Strada Bar.
18. Visit the European Quarter
The motto of the European Union is:
"United in diversity." How very wonderful is that?
Strasbourg is secretly called the capital of Europe and it is the official seat
of the European Parliament. Read all about my visit in Travel France. Strasbourg off the beaten track. The European Quarter –the spirit of Europe.
Europe - United in Diversity |
19. Batorama - Jump onto a boat
On my last night I jump onto a boat, I want to look at
the town from a different angle. I love that I can recapitulate my week in
Strasbourg. All these happy moments of the past week float through my head. Do the boat trip right at the beginning of your stay or at
the very end. The tour starts at the Palais Rohan, cruises slowly along the
Ancienne Douane, goes all the way to Petite France, through a lock, along the
Ponts Couvert, where I get one more view of the colourful façade of the Museum
of Modern Art. I don’t listen to the audio guide, I just dream. The boat than goes towards
the European Quarter and later I see all the laughing people at Quai des
pécheurs, only a few days ago I was one of them.
Batorama. 1 rue de
Rohan. Duration Strasbourg: 20 centuries of history-tour: 1h15. Tickets. Full rate : EUR 12.50. Full rate age 13 to 18 EUR
12.50. Reduced rate age 4 to 12 : EUR 7.20. Free for under 4 year olds and for
holders of the Strasbourg Pass. You can also buy tickets online.
Strasbourg Batorama Tour |
Strasbourg – Even the loveliest fairy-tale ends
You remember the dog at the cathedral I told
you about? While I petted the stony little creature, I begged for good weather
for my visit in Strasbourg. That cute thing did the best job. For one week
Strasbourg was bathed in sunshine and days were as bright as a glass of Crémant
(from the Alsace region of course).
Before you visit Strasbourg
You reach Strasbourg if you drive 220 kilometres from
Luxembourg City, 200 kilometres from Frankfurt, 200 kilometres from Zuerich,
and 500 kilometres from Paris. Visit the website of the airport for more
information if you would like to fly to Strasbourg. There are two tourist information offices in town. One is
at 17 Place de la Cathedral and one at the central train station. Visit their
website for more information. My research trip was supported by Strasbourg Tourism and I used the Strasbourg Pass during my stay. Info Strasbourg Pass:
EUR 18.90 adults. EUR 9.45 to EUR 12.45 for children. It is valid for three
consecutive days.
From Berlin with love