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Squirrel in South Africa |
Is the
world safe, is Europe in trouble, is Europe on the brink of collapse? These are
probably the questions everybody asks right now or has been pondering about for
a while. I saw a clip of a local newspaper where a fellow Berliner in his 70s
stated that he is so upset because security measurements on Munich Christmas
markets are so much better than the ones in Berlin. This guy obviously never
travels, or at least he hasn’t been to Munich’s Christmas markets recently. I
visited many of them this year and also a few in Berlin, there is no difference
in security whatsoever, at least for the untrained eye, I mean I’m no double
agent, no idea what goes on behind the scenes. It is all pretty much the same.
I wonder where people take these statements from. Who puts these ideas in their
heads? Why do they spread information about things they haven’t even
experienced themselves? I have to admit, chances are that guy is in the know
because he is a double agent.
Travelling is so exciting. The people, the food,
the passion, the fun. Nothing
is ever only black and white. It pays off to talk to locals and try to
understand their point of view, try to understand their way of life, and with
understanding them comes empathy. This year I visited South
Africa, the Czech Republic, Greece, France, Croatia, Slovenia, Italy, Austria,
the Netherlands, Hungary, UK and Denmark. I will tell you about the experiences I
had this year on my travels. Wherever I go I ask people about the situation in
their country, how they feel about it, and about their opinion about populism
and the rise of right-wing parties. I do things like this a lot and people
usually don't mind to have a chat.
Follow me around, to learn where I felt threatened
and unsafe.
January
and February. Germany
and South Africa
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Namaqaland South Africa |
In
January I read a headline in the Sun By Nick Parker, Chief Foreign
Correspondent in Berlin: “Berlin is so swamped by migrants the city is in
ruins.” I’m almost missing for words; one look out of the window, and I can
happily confirm that, sorry Sir, Berlin isn’t in ruins. The word “swamped”
alone is misleading; we are talking about humans and not about a natural disaster,
and to use the word “ruins”…. Heavens. I go for hour-long walks through Berlin,
and no, everything is still standing, no one and nothing is ruined. And there
aren't refugees swimming the streets of Berlin. The only thing that really is
in ruins still, is Berlin airport (and no one can confirm it ever to be
opened).
In South Africa, a country I visit frequently, I’m
always amazed about how far this country has come. It is a magnificent place
really. On the odd occasion, I feel ashamed and shocked about how some people
treat black people. It tells me that the world has a long way to go still until
we are all getting treated equally. I don’t feel threatened nor unsafe in South
Africa.
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Bremen Street Art |
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Bremen |
March. Germany – Greece – Czech Republic
In
Munich, on several occasions throughout the year, I join a demonstration
against a radical xenophobic group. In the centre of town, I have to listen to
most terrifying things like "all of our women will get raped by a Muslim,
..." It is sickening, they spread hate wherever they can. Another guy
states “ I travelled to a few countries in my life, and now I’m back here in
Germany, at home, and I want this to be my country, and for my countrymen
only.” He again is implying that there are too many foreigners living in
Germany, he doesn’t give any numbers, and who is he to decide who is allowed to
live where. A lady from that xenophobic group imitates another lady who had a
question and speaks German with a French accent. Petty minded. The positive
thing is that there is only a small group of these right-wing nationalist populists in front
of a larger group of demonstrators.
The other
demonstrators and I can’t believe to say things like these are allowed,
immigrants I speak to about this are scared. A lady at a boutique tells me she
hopes that these racist organisations will be a thing of the past soon; she
doesn’t want to give them any chance to get bigger, and will speak out against
them till the end of her days.
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Prague |
Athens
is the new Berlin
In
March in Athens I had so many amazing conversations with people from all walks
of life. Many Greeks are obviously very upset about the austerity measurements,
and many I spoke to can see why they are in this mess. People tell me they have
no idea how to get on with their lives; there are initiatives where neighbours
help each other out with food and clothing. Restaurants and cafes are packed
with people, service is swift, warm, welcoming, and one can pay with a credit
card. Many tell me how saddening it is that so many believe Greeks are lazy or
not willing to work. One chef tells me that Athens is the new Berlin. I don’t
feel threatened, neither by Greeks nor by refugees. I ask myself once more
where all this panic comes from.
I
spent days walking through Prague on the hunt for third-wave coffee, and I also
visit a concert. People on the streets and in the audience seem relaxed,
everybody sings along and dances, and there is no reason to believe that people
fear each other. The town is busy; locals and tourists go about their business, take
photos, go to work, smile, laugh, love and eat. I don’t feel threatened in
Prague.
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Cafe lifestyle in Athens |
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Athens |
April. Germany
I spend
most of April visiting several German towns. Next
to trips to Bremen, Hamburg and Muenster I also visit several small country
towns. I travel on in my mission to ask people what they think of xenophobia
and whether they see that there is a reason for it. All are pretty open-minded
and are convinced to give populists no platform and space whatsoever. Germany looks and feels pretty much as it always
had, safe and sound. I don’t feel threatened.
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Munich Tube station |
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Architecture Bad Hersfeld Germany |
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Berlin borough of Kreuzberg |
May. France – Germany - Croatia - Bosnia-Herzegovina
I make
my way to Strasbourg in May, I simply have to see the European quarter, the
place where people believe and fight every day for a great future. Streets,
restaurants, stores and museums were packed with happy locals and travellers,
there was a great atmosphere. I had no reason to feel scared of anything;
people were welcoming and fun to talk to. I don’t feel threatened in Strasbourg.
In May
I also went to Split in Croatia and had the most interesting time, people were
full of life, there is this interesting restaurant scene, and cafes were
brimming with people, fantastic atmosphere really. I knew that at the time Croatia
had a cultural minister who believes the WW2 Croatian pro-Nazi militia to be
martyrs. The way I experienced people didn’t really go together with these
nationalist beliefs, that dream of somehow isolating their people. At first, I
didn’t want to visit, since I feared Croatians would all be nationalist and
unwelcoming, I’m glad I went; it was so very lovely that I visited again in
June. I don’t feel threatened in Split.
I
eventually, make it to Mostar in Bosnia-Herzegovina, I always wanted to visit.
The Street Art is amazing and the history of the place most interesting, the
present still complicated. The Muslims call one side of the river home. I don’t
feel threatened in Mostar.
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Strasbourg - the capital of Europe |
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Library in Stuttgart in Germany | |
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Split in Croatia |
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Mostar in Bosnia-Herzegovina |
June. Croatia - Slovenia - Germany
I make
my way to Rovinj in
Croatia for
some fun in the sun and to eat delicious food. After my trip to Croatia, I visit
Ljubljana, the capital city of Slovenia, which I experienced as a modern town
that does everything to show Europe they are part of it. This year they are the
European Green Capital. This is a place where you can see how new members of
the EU embrace programs to make the world a better place. I reckon with what
happened over previous years and during the Yugoslav wars people might be
slightly scared of foreigners stealing their culture. One lady told me not to worry;
she feels Slovenia is on the right track. I don’t feel threatened in Croatia, nor in Slovenia. In Munich, I go to demonstrations against right-wing
populists, we face a small group speaking out against foreigners
"flooding" our country. Honestly, I am more and more convinced that
they don't know that there is a whole beautiful world out there. You can’t talk
to them, they repeat the same nonsense over and over again, and they did so probably
until they believed in it.
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Rovinj in Croatia |
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Rovinj - picture perfect |
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Ljubljana |
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Ljubljana in Slovenia |
July. Germany – Italy - Greece
In July
I visit Verona, I have to see Juliet’s balcony (or at least what they tell us
is Juliet’s balcony). In general, Italians are open-minded, welcoming, fun to
talk to, and pro Europe. To me the perfect thing with Italy is that Italians
are so very much in love with their cooking and the whole lifestyle around it,
it is natural to them. They obviously don’t fear that someone is going to take
anything away from them, and they don’t fear that somebody is going to smash
their culture or whatever else it is right-wing populists are trying to sell
Europeans. I think Italy is a very ordered place; they drink their coffee at a
certain time, they eat food in particular regions and so on. It all seems very
traditionalist, but they are very humble; they don’t force their ideals on
others. Italians just invite you to discover all their foodie traditions for
yourself and to fall in love with it.
I don’t feel threatened in
Verona, nor at Lake Iseo visiting to see Christo’s Floating Piers, nor in
Castelrotto hiking in the Dolomites.
Rhodos is a holiday place in the
sun; I speak to countless locals about austerity measures and the future they
see for themselves, they believe it will work out in the end. I get to know an
US citizen who holds some position for the government, he says that Trump will
never be elected; he tells me there is no reason whatsoever to worry about this
situation. Some English women I talk to at a restaurant, they sit at a table
nearby, apologise for Brexit, they are terrified of the future. I’m full of
hope, as long as we talk to each other, it is good news, right? I don’t feel
threatened in Greece.
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Lago Iseo in Italy |
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Lago Iseo in Italy |
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Lindos in Greece |
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Verona - aperitivo |
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Castelrotto in Italy |
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Munich, Germany |
August. Czech Republic - Germany
I
drive to the Czech Republic again, this time to Cesky Krumlov and Tabor. I
again speak to people, everything seems relaxed, I have a long talk to the
owner of a combined Restaurant and Design Store and he tells me that he
doesn’t understand this panic
anymore.
Czechs should actually be so very proud; their quality of life improved
tremendously after the iron curtain fell, but many lack the energy to take
matters in their own hand, they are still too used to a government looking
after them, and too many fall for the populist news, that refugees “swamp” the
Czech Republic. He says these numbers are in fact unneglectable, only 1,150
people applied for asylum.
It is summer, the news packed with stories that want to scare people, and after
everything I’ve seen so far this year, I actually can’t see a reason for it at
all. I don’t feel threatened in the Czech Republic.
In Munich, I go and check out the
anti-foreigner group again, there are about ten people and they had to change their
location, but they are still forecasting doomsday scenarios. It is frustrating,
how can they be so ignorant and short-sighted. Some people obviously do
everything to be in the limelight for a few moments (and be it only in the pedestrianized zone of Munich). I don’t feel threatened in Germany.
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Tabor in Czech Republic |
September. Germany – Italy - Austria
Later
in September I travel again to Slovenia and this time I make my way to Maribor and Ptuj,
and Lake Bled, there I hear that some fear the far right-wing populists are doing a great job
at hiding their intentions, they sell their ideas as patriotism. Hard to
believe, why do people buy this nonsense? I feel happy here, there is no threat
at all, and nobody and nothing whatsoever I need to be protected from.
In
late September I visit Innsbruck in Austria and I can’t believe my eyes when I
see a poster from the far right-wing party that states “power needs control,”
oh wow, what do these sick people want to tell us? I don’t feel any threat in Innsbruck
nor when I go hiking in the Alps, I have no idea what the far-right party is
talking about when they want to protect Austria, protect from whom? Soon after
I visit the candidate of the Green Party gets voted in, again, in the rerun of
the Federal Presidential Election. The Austrians rejected the far right-wing
guy. I don’t feel threatened in Austria. Later, I make my way to Lago di Braies, it is magical. I don't feel threatened.
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Ptuj in Slovenia |
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Maribor, Slovenia |
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Ptuj, Slovenia |
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Innsbruck in Austria |
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Lago die Braies in Italy - this colour |
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Pier at Lago die Braies in Italy |
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Lago di Braies in Italy |
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Hiking in Innsbruck in Austria |
October. Hungary - The Netherlands
- Germany
In October I visit Budapest, it
seems that apart from tourists, there are no other foreigners on Budapest’s
streets at all. I have no idea who they fear and why (in the first place) to
be honest. What a sad situation. So very strange, they are in central Europe
but oppose multicultural societies out of fear that their culture dies out. I
have a magnificent time, walking the streets, taking photos, drinking coffee,
going out for dinner. I can't put a finger on it, it moves me deeply, there
seems to be a certain inhibition all over town. I don’t feel threatened in
Hungary.
Amsterdam is always a good idea;
you can only have a good time here. People are outgoing, welcoming and friendly.
I also spent a few days on the coast in the sleepy seaside town of Egmond aan
Zee, same here, lovely. All the while the anti-Islam, anti-EU right-wing
politician tries to convince the Dutch that their country is a dictatorship
since he wasn’t allowed to say that The Netherlands has a “mega Moroccan problem.”
It is a bit sickening how would Moroccans feel to be called a problem? That guy
obviously lives in a very different world, when was the last time he left his
home? I don’t feel threatened in the Netherlands.
I travel to Cologne, Bonn and Munich.
All good here, I don’t feel threatened in Germany.
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Parliament of Budapest, Hungary |
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In Budapest, capital of Hungary |
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Houseboat. Amsterdam, the Netherlands |
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Cycling in Amsterdam, the Netherlands |
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Berlin in Germany |
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Berlin. Festival of lights |
November. UK - Germany
London, I don’t feel threatened
here. I have to admit it is hard not to wonder constantly who of these guys on
these busy streets voted for Brexit, it is heartbreaking; the whole situation
makes me so very sad. We will see what the future brings. I see how Munich
prepares for Christmas, I don’t feel threatened here.
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London in England |
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London, England |
December. France - Germany -
Denmark
This December in Paris, on one afternoon, I went to
Angelina on Rue de Rivoli for my hot chocolate fix, it was too busy so I got a
take away hot chocolate. While I waited in line a member of staff approached me
and asked whether I would like to buy something else, and I bought a delicious
and pretty box of chocolates. I bluntly asked her to please not vote for Le
Pen, and to believe in Europe and peace. She replied "I would never vote
for this f*** Le Pen, the one who plays with fear. I'm scared of her and her
plans." It terrifies me too, and I answered: "Look around you, we live
in the most beautiful place." She smiled with a somewhat sad look on her
face "I know and we have to fight for it." I didn’t feel threatened
in Paris, no idea why populists reckon France needs stronger border protection.
I spent Christmas in Denmark, in Jutland. Amazing
landscape, perfect scenery, we even have a proper storm one night, which is
pretty much the only dangerous incident throughout my stay. I don’t feel
threatened in Denmark; it is a rather peaceful place.
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Hamburg in Germany |
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Paris in December |
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Paris in France |
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Nymndegab in Denmark |
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Ribe in Denmark |
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Beach in Nymindegab in Denmark |
Travel
– This is the truth and nothing else
As we
reach the end of 2016 I come to the following conclusion. Living in peace is like avocado on sourdough drizzled with olive oil
together with a green smoothie plus a flat white for breakfast, followed by
strawberries sprinkled with coarse black pepper. It is totally delicious. I understand that not everybody
loves travelling as much as I do and that not everybody feels the need to
travel as much as I do, but please talk to people who travel, talk to
strangers, but talk, try to find the truth and see the reality. One
thing is for sure; after I visited all these places I can assure you there is
not a single reason to be worried. Please don’t fall for the ones who promise
you to rescue you from harm; generally speaking there is actually no one out
there who wants to harm you (we all know there will always be criminals, but
that is a different matter). This is the truth and nothing else. See our right
to travel, and to trade with different nationalities as a chance and not as a
threat, just allow yourself to see how amazing your life is.
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Have a safe and sound and
magical 2017 |
From Berlin with love (and no, I
don’t feel threatened here, the town still isn’t in ruins)