Updated July 2023.
The sky is blue for days on end. Where the River Regnitz and the River Main in Bavaria
meet, a town spreads out over seven hills. In 1007 Henry II, Holy Roman Emperor
had massive plans with Bamberg, he wanted it to be the new Rome and there was a
church on each of the seven hills. You reach Bamberg if you drive 200
kilometres to the north from Munich, 300 kilometres to the west from Prague and
600 kilometres to the south from Luebeck.
After walking around for a while I have the feeling there
are leaning facades and crooked red roof-tops everywhere. Luckily for all fans
of history and medieval architecture, new developments won’t be in your way when
you stroll through the streets of Bamberg. Bamberg is a slow town; it is very
historical but not fuddy-duddy. The city was spared in WW2, and there are plenty
of properties surviving from the medieval period, with a mix of ecclesiastical
and secular buildings that are preserved to this day. When you are here you’ll
find that nearly everything shines in medieval glory, and with its authentic
medieval street layout the whole of Bamberg old town became UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Ever since I was a child I wanted to walk through a fairy
tale. Here, in the largest intact preserved historical town centre in Germany, I
realize this dream. It pays
to walk to see the architecture. A car isn’t needed at all, and would probably be a hindrance. With all these small one way-streets driving around town might be rather complicated.
to walk to see the architecture. A car isn’t needed at all, and would probably be a hindrance. With all these small one way-streets driving around town might be rather complicated.
In total there are 2,500 heritage-listed buildings in
Bamberg and when you walk around, spend a bit of time to study smaller details
on town- and farmhouses. In addition to the churches and the town hall, they are
monuments of importance too. Stone crests or old doors are pretty to look at
and each one tells a story of artisans who lived and worked here.
The heart of Bamberg is an island - 10 Pretty Things to See in Bamberg
The Old Town Hall Bamberg
I
arrived when dusk fell and in the twilight, I found the town hall to be sitting cheekily
in the middle of a river. The River Regnitz is the boundary between the
bourgeois city and the episcopal mountain and on an island in that river sits
the Town Hall. Legend has it that the location on the island is a result of
rivalry between the citizens and the bishop. When the bishop didn’t want to
make room for the planned new building, the citizens simply piled up an
artificial island as building site.
Little Venice in Bamberg
Ever since the 14th century trade ships went downstream the River Main and the River Rhine all the way to the Netherlands and the North Sea. The area along the river Regnitz is called Little Venice for all its small and picturesque buildings close to the water. The boat- and fishermen who lived and worked here traded with The Netherlands but together with the millers they were also made accountable for freeing the River Regnitz from ice in winter. Here you can even go for a ride in an authentic Venetian gondola.
Mohren Haus Bamberg
The house was first mentioned in 1444, and ever since 1637 it is known under the name "To the Moor” because of the Moor that looks down from the sandstone facade. The classical furnishing of the tea shop at the entrance from 1810 is heritage listed. It took a few hours to browse all clothes, home accessories, handbags and delicatessen on offer in this charming and welcoming store. There are many fair trade and organic products. I also took the time to drink espresso on the second level. I went here several times during my time in Bamberg since I loved the store so much.
I find the name of the store strange, it is not
appropriate but judgmental. The Moor is here still portrayed as someone who is
different and exotic from others. The idea of the luxurious life at the courts
of oriental sultans still holds a great fascination for many people. The term
"Moor" is associated with colonialism and racism, and on the facade,
there is the cliché character of a black man with big eyes and lips only
dressed in a straw skirt. It is only a name right? No. It hurts to see that
apparently, no one cares about this.
Info Mohren-Haus. Edith Papritz GmbH Obere Brücke 14.
96047 Bamberg. Hours: Monday to Saturday 10am to 6pm. Sunday closed. Please visit the website for more.
Centurione by Polish artist Igor Mitoraj
See this large-scale bronze statue by artist Igor Mitoraj near the river Regnitz. “I feel that a piece of arm or a leg speak far more strongly than a whole body” the artist once said. Standing next to the disembodied and fractured head, in the middle of picture-perfect Bamberg, once more I understand that beauty isn’t everything, and that there is always a price to pay.
Stroll through the Sandgebiet of Bamberg
The alleys and streets around Sandstrasse are referred to as Sand. The area extends from the Dominikanergasse to Markus bridge. Go here to find antique stores, cafes, and bars.
The store Die Blume Bamberg is an enchanting little
flower store that you need to see, it really is the cutest little store ever.
Napkins, wooden hearts, owls, candle holders, cake stands, and baskets with
flowers. This is the place if you would like to learn how to decorate your home
in true Bavarian country style.
Info Blume Bamberg. Untere Brücke 7, 96049 Bamberg. Hours: Monday to Friday 10am to
6pm. Saturday 10am to 4pm.
Böttingerhaus Bamberg
This city palais on Judenstraße is one of the most important baroque bourgeois buildings in southern Germany. Today it is an art gallery.
Info Böttingerhaus.Please visit the website for more. Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday,
Friday 10am–6pm. Saturday 10am–4pm. Sunday, Monday Closed.
Farmers Market Bamberg
Visit the
Bamberger farmers market, and eat your way through local fruits and vegetables,
honey, liqueurs, cheeses and dairy spreads, bread, cakes, and pastries. About
half of the products on the market are produced organically.
Info Farmers Market. Promenade, 96047 Bamberg. Hours:
Saturday mornings 8am to 1pm.
Romanesque Bamberg Cathedral
The Romanesque Bamberg Cathedral (St. Peter and St. George) on Cathedral Hill is one of the German imperial cathedrals. Due to its four towers, it is easy to spot from pretty much everywhere in Bamberg's Old Town.
The New Residence Bamberg
The New Residence was built
in two phases between 1613 and 1703. The 40 state rooms are equipped with
stucco ceilings, furniture and tapestries from the 17th and 18th centuries. The
rooms illustrate the high Baroque period and are a monument to Frankish, Bavarian
and German history.
The cathedral square with the Romanesque-Gothic Cathedral and the rose garden behind the New Residence is certainly one of the prettiest squares in Europe.
I was so lucky with the weather, but I can imagine it to be pretty in the snow too or when it rains, imagine how magical the cobblestoned streets will look.
The cathedral square with the Romanesque-Gothic Cathedral and the rose garden behind the New Residence is certainly one of the prettiest squares in Europe.
Visit Bamberg
I was so lucky with the weather, but I can imagine it to be pretty in the snow too or when it rains, imagine how magical the cobblestoned streets will look.
Please note: If you would like to browse the little stores in town, don’t visit on a Sunday, bear in mind that stores are closed, it is the legal situation in Germany (there are exceptions to this rule, but I'd better not count on it).
Do you like Bavaria? Travel on and read How to get rosy cheeks: Vigour. Hiking. Herbs. Passion at Rehlegg in Bavaria.
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