Updated August 2023.
After
the restrictions during the Yugoslav years, and everything that followed, Chateau
Ramšak is finally opening its doors to the public. Is it worth the journey? I
travelled through the rolling hills of Slovenia to find out.
A
vacation in the countryside of Slovenia. I see two playful deers on the green
as I make my way from the parking area over the wooden pathway towards my tent.
I look at them from a safe distance, to not disturb the cute pair. Soon they
are disappearing into the thick undergrowth. Slovenia is a country in southern
Central Europe. Most things happen in the two major cities Ljubljana and
Maribor, the rest is rather rural and foremost populated by farmers, it is a
true nature lover’s paradise. Its neighbours are Italy, Austria, Hungary and
Croatia. I’m here to 'glamp' in the charming countryside, on a winery near
Maribor in Štajerska, in English Lower Styria region.
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| Green Hills of Slovenia |
Glamping
is the combination of glamour and camping, and that is exactly what I find as I
unfasten the zipper of my safari-style tent. The zipper makes this distinct
noise. While it echoes through the quiet valley I feel very “out of Slovenia,” and
as a result, my heart starts to beat a little bit faster with excitement. That
is what travelling does to you. My tent has a bedroom
with a comfy bed and a wardrobe, a bathroom with delicious organic cosmetic
products and a strong enough shower and hairdryer, a tiny kitchen with tea and
coffee making facilities and even a fridge. You can sit in a sun chair on your
private terrace to read a book and listen to the sound of silence; you can do
this also in your very own outdoor Jacuzzi. Wouldn’t you say this is heaven?
After
the gleam of the last light is gone, nights are pitch-dark and quiet; the only
sound “Hoo-Hoo-Hoo-Hoo” comes from an owl. Is it an owl or a dove? It is the
time when the only thing I want to do is to watch the starry night sky. Chasing
shooting stars. Looking up and keep on dreaming. There is a flat-screen in the
tent; I wonder what sort of person needs this type of entertainment when the
art of nature is so much more impressive?
Breakfast and food at Chateau Ramšak
Breakfast
is a pretty and yummy affair on the terrace in front of the main house with a
view over the valley, the crow of roosters adds to the idyllic atmosphere. The
food is sourced locally and cooked by chef Alja Martinjak, a former lawyer,
whose passion for food was big enough to let her whole-heartedly change
careers. The warm and smiling locavore loves to use only a few ingredients and
to create lavish feasts. One night she cooks pumpkin
pasta that tastes to die for and I ask her for the recipe. She writes it down,
with a pen. I'm touched, I honestly can't remember a time I have been given
something handwritten (apart from Birthday and Christmas cards). Days later I
see that Alja has written: “Don’t forget to also add some love to the dish” at
the end. I think of her and smile.
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| Breakfast cooked by chef Alja Martinjak |
There wouldn’t be a reason to leave Chateau Ramšak but you should visit Maribor, a university town, which is ideal to go out to listen to live music, have dinner, eat ice cream, and grab a coffee. You will certainly gain a true insight into the daily life of Slovenians in this town. On the banks of the river Drava you find the oldest vine in Europe, a descendant of it has been planted at Chateau Ramšak. Everybody I meet at Chateau Ramšak feels a deep love for their town. That also goes for the owner family, the winemakers.
This is the place where our wine feels at home
The
family makes their own wine like they always did. Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio,
Green Silvaner, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and a dessert wine, Moscatel. Wait,
not always. Initially, the grandfather planted this vineyard for pleasure. The
GP, who, during the day devoted his full attention to the care of his patients,
happily pottered around his land after work. Until the day it was taken from
him. The winery was nationalized during the Yugoslavia years. These days Slovenia,
together with Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, Montenegro and Macedonia
is one of six recognized Yugoslav successor states. Sadly, the status of Kosovo
gets still debated. After the collapse of Yugoslavia, the return to the rightful
owner before nationalization had priority overcompensation, and eventually, the
winery became part of the family once again. At this time grandfather was dead,
but his wife almost saw the happy ending. She died at age 100, three years
before she and her family would call Chateau Ramšak home again.
The winemaking is solely in the hands of the family. The quartet of the mother, father and two sons put all their energy into their project and receive excellent feedback at international wine shows. During a wine tasting next to the biggest wine press in Europe (I would have never in a million years thought to find that in Slovenia) we tour the cellar and Tomasž betrays us a secret “This is the place where our wine feels at home.” I believe he speaks for the whole family.
Look, smell and taste the wine in Slovenia
The
family is happy to guide non-guests around their winery and offers wine
tastings. For more information please visit their website to book with them directly.
Verdict Chateau Ramšak
I was looking for glamping in an off the beaten path location in Slovenia, and this winery impressed me with 1) its secluded but easy to reach location 2) the raw compassion and love for life of the hosts 3) the stylish and down-to-earth backdrop. Would I stay at Chateau Ramšak again in the future? Absolutely. Would I recommend a stay at Chateau Ramšak to a friend? Absolutely.
People
love to talk about how conflicts affect Europe. This place is an example of how
wonderful freedom and peace is. It shows how rewarding it is to be creative and
embrace the future. As I leave I'm full of life, my road trip to Maribor was
absolutely worth it.
Glamping at Chateau Ramšak Overview |
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Hotel
address
|
Počehova
35, 2000 Maribo, Slovenia.
|
Price
|
7 Safari Style tents, one of them is in a Tree House.
EUR 250
- 400, incl. breakfast. Rates depend on the season. Check-in after 2pm. Check-out 11am.
|
Type of
Hotel
|
Boutique,
romantic, trendy.
|
Type of
break
|
Romantic
getaway, solace and relaxation, foodie experience.
|
Air-conditioner
|
Yes.
|
Pets
|
No.
|
Wi-Fi
|
Yes.
|
Swimming
pool
|
Private
Jacuzzi.
|
Restaurant
|
Yes,
food is served in the garden or in the old wine cellar. (This place is perfect for vegetarians).
|
Room
Service
|
No.
|
How to get to Maribor
By car. Maribor is 100 kilometres from the capital city Ljubljana. 500 kilometres from Munich in Germany. 350 kilometres from Salzburg and 80 kilometres from Graz in Austria. 100 kilometres from Zagreb in Croatia. 330 kilometres from Bratislava in Slovakia. 350 kilometres from Budapest in Hungary, 350 kilometres from Venice in Italy.
By train. As far as I know,
there are still unclosed gaps in European train travel, it would take an awful
lot of time to travel to Maribor by train. 2,5 hours from Ljubljana. 9 hours from
Munich in Germany. 10 hours from Salzburg and 2.5 hours from Graz in Austria.
No direct connection from Zagreb in Croatia. 13 hours from Bratislava in
Slovakia. 13 hours from Budapest in Hungary, 16 hours from Venice in Italy.
By plane. I recommend flying
to any of the aforementioned airports and rent a car.
What about a Visa for Slovenia?
You will need to hold a valid travel document when entering Slovenia and apply for a Schengen Visa if you are a third-country national (applicable if your home country is not part of the EU). Find all information you need on the website of the Slovenian Ministry of Foreign Affairs.
From
Berlin with love