What are the first things you think of when someone mentions Spain? Bullfighting? As a child I had a lot of Spanish friends, and to be honest I have no idea whether they like bullfighting, it was pretty irrelevant to us kids. The only thing I remember is that they were all fun to hang out with; we spent summer after summer playing marbles. You might even say I spent big parts of my childhood playing marbles with Jesus. His parents gave him that name. To this day I wonder why, but after all is it just a name.
Imagine that over the years I visited so many places in Spain. I went to
see Cordoba, Malaga, Marbella, Granada, Sevilla, Ronda, Jaen, Barcelona, and
the islands of Mallorca, Lanzarote and Gran Canaria. Some of these places I
even visited numerous times. But never would I have thought of visiting Madrid.
In hindsight I can’t explain why not. Madrid, the capital of Spain in
south-western Europe on the central Iberian Peninsula is a magnificent town to
visit. It is not as super trendy as is Barcelona, and there aren't these
massive crowds that come together with super stardom.
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| Madrid - Yes, it is this pretty |
When someone mentions Spain, and every time I visit the country, I think of Jesus (the guy I played marbles with) and I always look forward to be again surrounded by friendliness and warmth. This article is an inspiration to get lost in the capital of Spain, leave your map at home and just go.
How to explore Madrid step by step
When I arrive in Madrid I know that there are several big plazas. I make
my way around town, using the location of these squares as guidance. Along the
way, I find many cute cafes, great restaurants, friendly people, and exciting
and independent boutiques. Once you understand (and remember) where all these
squares are, you’ll be able to navigate the town without a map. Whenever someone
asks me about hotels, cafés and restaurants in Madrid, I recommend the
following ones. But first, let us have a quick look at a few of the main
squares.
Plaza de Oriente in the Historic Centre of Madrid
This plaza is on the side of the east façade of the Royal Palace. You
can have a wander along sculptures of former kings or just sit on one of the
benches and relax. Another option would be to have a drink at the stylish Cafe de Oriente, it is a seriously pretty café (and so very old fashioned).
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| Plaza de Oriente in Madrid - The Touristin |
Puerta del Sol is the Busiest Square in Madrid
This is the heart of the city, it is busy, it is packed, and it hardly
ever stands still. From this square with its kilometre zero, all distances in
Spain are calculated. Spend some time here, people watch, have a wander, it is
a must-see. Go and find El oso y el Madrono. The sculpture of the bear and the
strawberry tree is the symbol of Madrid, it is also on the coat of arms of the
city.
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| Puerta del Sol in Madrid - The Touristin |
Plaza de la Villa is a Delight to Look at
The most eye-catching building at this square is the Town Hall. The
property, in Spanish Casa de la Villa, is connected with an arch to a castle,
the Casa de Cisneros. Can you imagine that there was a time when Spain tried to
invade England? A fight that seems totally bizarre in our times was the bitter
truth in 1588. In the square, you find a statue of the admiral who had the idea
for the 130 ships strong fleet, the Spanish Armada. I look at him and
feel really happy that the English and the Spaniards get on so well these days.
The only form of invasion we know today happens every July and August.
It is the great annual migration of millions of English,
that flee their island and start their long track (speak short flight) towards
Spanish coastal towns. And it is a win-win situation, the Spaniards make money
from them and the English (sure also a few Scots) get rays of sunshine in
return.
Plaza Mayor, a square for Philatelists and Pleasure Seekers
This square is literally just around the corner from Puerta del Sol, and
you can enter it from nine different entrances. It is surrounded by buildings
with striking facades that have lots of balconies. Take a stroll under the
arches, and you’ll find souvenir shops, stores where you can trade stamps and
coins, cafes and restaurants. It is in this area of town where I buy my Avarca
de Menorca sandals. They come in all colours and are beautiful. They are
handmade with love by real people, but they only cost +/- EUR 30.
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| Plaza Mayor in Madrid and Avarca de Menorca sandals - The Touristin |
El Retiro Park – The Green Heart of the Spanish Capital
On a sunny day Madrileños have picnics, go for a boat ride, for walks,
read the papers, or meet their friends/families for coffee and ice-cream at one
of the beer gardens in Madrid's biggest park. Madrid has 13 hours of sunshine
per day in the month of July, which means there is plenty of opportunity to
enjoy the park.
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| El Retiro Park in Madrid - The Touristin |
Where to Eat, Drink and have Fun in Madrid
Madrid is huge, but once you can picture where all these squares are,
you can make your way around town without a map, and that is what travelling is
all about. Here are a few of my wonderful finds; I recommend all of them
highly. If you just pop into a bar for a drink, they most certainly serve
olives to nibble on, and if you go for a coffee they almost always provide a
glass of water, so wherever you decide to go to you will be welcomed warmly.
Restaurant Mama Campa in the Borough of Chamberi
Stroll through the borough of Salamanca, it is a quiet and neat area of
Madrid with pretty cafes and stores. It is slightly off the track but well
worth the browse. If you walk further you will find Mama Campa, a restaurant in
the Madrid borough of Chamberi on super busy Plaza de Olavide. Everything is
organic here, vegetarian options are excellent, and the gazpacho for example is
delicious and has got a most striking beetroot colour. Mama Campa, Plaza de
Olavide, 28010 Madrid. Next door on Calle de Trafalgar 22 is their super cute
organic store.
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| The borough of Salamanca in Madrid - The Touristin |
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| Gazpacho at Mama Campo in Chamberi - The Touristin |
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| Magical Mama Campo in Chamberi - The Touristin |
La Latina in Madrid
The area around Plaza de Humilladero, Plaza San Andres and Plaza de la
Paja in the oldest part of town boasts many tapas bars, cafes and restaurants.
It is especially fun at night whereas it is surprisingly quiet during the day.
Café Bar Delic in La Latina. Super cute
Deli with a wide variety of tapas, drinks and homemade cakes where you can be
on your own reading or catching up with friends. Café Bar Delic, Costanilla de San
Andrés, 14.
La Musa Latina in La Latina. Whitewashed walls and friendly people
everywhere. Costanilla de San Andrés, 12
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Plaza
de la Paja. Bar Delic. Plaza San Andres. Love Forever in La Latina - The Touristin
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Taberna del Capitan Alatriste. This to me is the perfect restaurant. Not only that the chilled grape and almond soup, the roasted vegetables, and the rice pudding for dessert were all cooked with passion, the property and interior is beautiful and the waiter couldn’t have been any friendlier. The restaurant pays homage to the fictional character of Capitan Alatriste, a swashbuckling cape and sword hero in 17th century Madrid, created by Spanish author Arturo Perez-Reverte. While you eat you can think of the time when Spanish artist Diego Velazquez painted The Maids of Honour and Christopher Columbus sailed to the New World. Taberna del Capitan Alatriste. Calle Grafal 7.
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| Dinner at Taberna del Capitan Alatriste in Madrid - The Touristin |
Rooftop Bar El Callao El Corte Ingles near Puerta del Sol
Make your way into the department store El Corte Ingles and go for a
long browse through all floors of the department store. Imagine this to be the
equivalent to Macy’s (or Bloomingdale’s) in the US, Selfridge in Great Britain,
Galeria Kaufhof in Germany, Woolworths in South Africa or David Jones in
Australia. Check out the clothes of Spanish brand Intropia (formerly Hoss
Intropia) to take back home a piece of Mediterranean spirit. Eventually you
will be very hungry. Keep on walking a little bit more and you will reach this
foodie-heaven on the ninth level. And then, there is this stunning view over
Madrid. Rooftop Bar El Callao El Corte Ingles, Level 9, Centro Comercial El
Corte Inglés, Plaza de Callao, 2. Hours: 10am to 12am.
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| Rooftop Bar El Callao El Corte Ingles - The Touristin |
El Riojano on Calle Mayor
This bakery and café was founded in 1855 by a pastry cook from the Royal
Palace. If you enter the store you find yourself in a picturesque shop with a
large wooden counter and gold-framed mirrors. Find a table in the café in the
back; this is such a friendly place, during my time in Madrid I visited every
time I walked by. After a few visits they started to greet me like an old
friend. Calle Mayor 10.
San Gines Chocolateria near Plaza Mayor
No question, you have to try Churros with chocolate at San Gines Chocolateria, it makes an excellent breakfast. Ever since 1894 they sell these
dreams of a pastry together with a thick chocolate sauce. Given the quality the
cafe is obviously crazy busy at any time of the day, but still the waiters even
managed a smile. Pasadizo San Ginés, 5. Hours: Monday to Sunday 12am to 11.59pm
(right that is 24/7).
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| San Gines Chocolateria in Madrid (and) The Touristin |
Lavapies and Las Huertas District
There are lots of little bookstores, grocers, bakeries, cafes and
boutiques in this area. Stop for drinks and shopping at Plaza de Matute. Any bar here will do, go shopping at The Corner, Calle
de las Huertas, 17. Hours: Monday to Saturday 10.30 till 3pm. 4pm to 9pm.
Closed Sunday. If you go over to Plaza de Santa Ana you can pop into Cerveceria Alemana and eat some cheese
and have a drink, like Hemingway did (been there, done that, yay, you should go to). If
you walk from here all the way down through the area called Lavapies and
towards Plaza Lavapies, you will soon after reach the Queen Sofia Arts Center (Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia).
The borough of Malasaña – Her name was Manuela
This delightfully trendy part of Madrid is named after Manuela Malasaña,
a girl who was killed in 1808 by the troops of Napoleon I. You can learn about
her and about the war that followed at the Museo de Historia de Madrid. In this
area you'll find stores, pop-up shops, and cafes galore, and they are all pretty
and fun to visit.
Rents went up, many locals had to move away, and the rest (of us) are
happy about these changes, let us say we enjoy the perks of gentrification. I
don’t try to be funny here, it is what it is. I know there are many sad stories
about neighbourhoods like these, but I wouldn’t per se say that gentrification
is a bad thing; it often brings new job opportunities to formerly neglected
areas. Towns become livelier and safer ...
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| Pick your favourite colour. Ballerina Skirts in Malasana - The Touristin |
LeCircus. This store in Malasaña is a must for fashionistas. Dresses, swimwear, accessories, jewellery and bags from Italy, Denmark, France or Spain. Info. Calle Corredera Baja de San Pablo, 18. Hours: Monday to Saturday 11.30am to 9pm. Sunday: 12pm to 3pm, 5pm to 8pm.
Lamucca. After a (lovely) wait at the busy
bar, I had Pizza and drinks at the restaurant. Excellent location, welcoming
waiters, delicious Pizza. Plaza Carlos Cambronero, 4.
Amargo The Place To Be. Have a Café Cortado, an orange
juice and Pan Con Tomate (bread with tomatoes and garlic) at the counter and you
are prepared for a morning stroll through Madrid. Calle Pez 2.
Kikekeller. Eat marshmallows while you have
drinks at this store meets gallery meets bar. Most objects here are
re-interpreted, and given a new purpose in life, as for example the bicycle
seat which is now a chair. Calle de la
Corredera Baja de San Pablo, 17. Malasaña.
Maricastaña. Try to get a table on a Sunday
morning, it might be impossible though, since it seems that this is everybody's
favourite cafe; I went for breakfast during the week. The decor is minimalistic
with natural materials, everything goes so well together. It was surely
decorated by someone who had an innate talent for it (even the bathroom is
attractive, if you go please don’t forget to wash your hands after you used
it). Calle Corredera Baja de San Pablo, 12.
Bar Galleta. You know the feeling when you
enter a restaurant and think this is so deliciously pretty, I need to go here
all the time from now on … Bar Galleta is a place like that. It is exposed red
brick walls, white wood, mirrors plus intimate lighting. I wanted to have
dinner here but didn’t manage to get a table, completely booked out, so I went
back here during the week for a light lunch of fried eggs and wild mushrooms
with truffle oil. Calle Corredera Baja de San Pablo, 31.
Mala Market. On Saturday from 12pm till 9pm,
it is on this Design Outdoor Market where you can meet crafters, designers, and
illustrators and buy their wares. I hope you are lucky and it is on when you
visit, please check their website first for exact dates. There are cafes and
bars galore all around the market square.
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From left to right: Skirts. Bar Galleta. Amargo. LeCircus. La Mucca in Malasana - The Touristin
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Visit a food market Please read all about it in my article Madrid. 4 exciting boroughs with 4 fantastic markets.
Where To Stay in Madrid?
I spent two weeks in Madrid and stayed at three hotels that are all very
different in style. You decide which one is right for you.
Hotel Meninas in the Historical Centre of Madrid
This boutique hotel is in a listed property in the heart of Madrid, only
moments away from Puerta del Sol and the Royal Palace. Rooms are slightly on
the small side; this might have to do with the fact that this hotel is right in
the centre of town. Beds are super comfy, with crisp bed linen. There is one
really interesting fact for people who care for the environment; one can’t regulate
the air condition below 22 degrees Celsius; that clearly shows that they care
about the environment at this place. The average rate for a double room is +/-
EUR 160, I booked on their website.
Madrid Marriott Auditorium Hotel close to Madrid Airport
With its 869 rooms the hotel feels like a small town in itself, and on
numerous occasions silly me didn’t find back to her room. Rooms, decorated in
muted colours are spacious; you will surely have the most relaxing stay here.
To reach the centre of Madrid, which is roughly 15 kilometres away, you simply
take the public bus or jump into a taxi. The average rate for an executive
double room is +/- EUR 150, check all prices on their website.
Life Hotel in the borough of Malasaña
This was a rather interesting
stay. The decoration is really cute, it feels like you stay at a private home.
I especially loved the light-grey wallpaper in my room and the painted wooden
boards on the walls. On one night there was a loud party plus a fistfight in
the room next door. I was planning to go out, it didn’t bother me too much and
I left. When I got back several hours later the two pretty bamboo hanging
chairs in the downstairs hallway were knocked over. Hey, that was a great
indicator, this told me my neighbours were out for the night. There is, in fact,
no reception to welcome you (it is at a nearby hotel) and I pretty much met no
one of the members of staff during my stay. This is a fun and authentic option
if you would like to stay in Malasaña. The
average rate is +/- EUR 100. Hotel Life. Pizarro 16. Check exact prices on their website.
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Life Hotel in the borough of Malasaña - Hotel
Meninas in the Historical Centre of Madrid
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Madrid –Staying awake for 24 hours
I love to visit museums and churches, and I (sort of)
visited every museum there is in Madrid, read all about it in my article Travel Spain. The best museums, palaces and churches in Madrid, ah, and I also love Street Art in Madrid. Life
goes on well into the night in Madrid, you will see that the only negative
thing about Madrid is that you can’t stay awake for a full 24 hours per day.
What else is there to do in
Madrid? Can’t wait to hear from you.